In search of Taipei’s cat village, excellent oolong and a night market by the sea
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In search of Taipei's cat hamlet, excellent oolong and a night market place past the sea
From Houtong'due south true cat-themed cafes and Jiufen's Hayao Miyazaki-like hamlet to Keelung's succulent street nutrient, there's more to explore once yous venture out of the city.
O, to live in a Cat Village, where 1's chief chore is to be admired. (Photograph: Hon Jing Yi)
31 Aug 2022 06:30AM (Updated: 10 Jul 2022 08:40PM)
I knew I had arrived in the right place, when I discerned a strong whiff of cat pee. I had been searching for Houtong's True cat Hamlet in New Taipei. A former coal mining town, Houtong is now known for its multitude of feline residents who lounge around the tranquility fiddling village, where cat-themed cafes and stores have set up shop amidst the older, slightly run-downward buildings that firm its human residents.
Although situated merely nigh an hour outside Taipei, Houtong seemed like a different globe – i I was genuinely excited to explore. I have been to Taipei more than times than I tin count in the concluding few years, both for work and leisure, and have only ventured out of the metropolis, to nearby Yilan, once earlier.
This time, since I had one glorious 24-hour interval costless before piece of work began, I decided to peel myself abroad from my usual haunts in Taipei, like Raohe Nighttime Market place and the Eslite 24-hour bookstore, for a spontaneous day trip outside of the city.
'HUNDREDS OF CATS'
Houtong, which came highly recommended past a Taiwanese colleague, became my first target. Since Houtong's description on Google Maps read "Small village with hundreds of cats", I had imagined that I would exist surrounded by cats jostling for attention. But when I visited, on that sweltering summer morning, I counted only well-nigh 30 cats. Not quite the dramatic, cat-cafe-on-steroids scene I had been hoping for.
Nonetheless, information technology was great fun strolling effectually the piddling hamlet, spotting the cats lying everywhere exterior shops and houses, on window sills, and on the rooftops. Most alternated betwixt napping and looking mildly irritated at the humans who had come from all over the world to take wefies with them, though the more friendly cats amongst them came upwardly to rub their little furry bodies around my ankles.
I was surprised to see how incredibly well cared for, and certainly how well fed they were. In fact, they were offered such an impressive variety of treats, they ignored the dry liver true cat nibbles I had brought specially from Singapore. (Yep, I took the rejection quite personally.)
It was around noon when I began to sense a surge in the number of cat admirers. And when the humans started to outnumber the kitties about three to one, I decided it was time to get some treats myself.
SPIRITED Away TO JIUFEN
Thankfully, getting around was easy, and astonishingly inexpensive. The train that had taken me from Taipei Main Station to Houtong toll only nearly 56NTD (S$2.40), although an Uber driver had told me information technology'd cost about 800-900NTD (Due south$35 to Due south$40) to hire a automobile, which would still be a sensible and affordable selection for families.
After bidding bye to the last, satisfyingly appreciating true cat, whom I befriended using another tourist'due south treats, I took the railroad train back to the boondocks of Ruifang where, after some nimble Googling, I discovered that Jiufen was merely well-nigh 10 minutes away by local taxi.
Virtually tourists to Taiwan volition recognise Jiufen's signature red lanterns and sometime-fashioned, multi-storeyed tea houses from postcards and travel sites, or for its uncanny resemblance to the hamlet featured in Hayao Miyazaki's Spirited Away, and I was delighted to be visiting the mountain town for the very first time.
Immediately after I arrived, I establish myself lost in its dizzying alleyways, filled with tea shops, gift shops and stalls selling popular Taiwanese street nutrient items, like peanut ice foam rolls, taro balls and my favourite – freshly grilled Kurobuta sausages. Feeling slightly overwhelmed past the heat and hordes of tourists, I ducked into a tea firm that I institute tucked inconspicuously abroad on a quieter street, steps away from the more famous, but also more than crowded, A Mei Tea Business firm.
It turned out to be an fantabulous decision, and serendipity at its all-time. Jioufen Teahouse, where I found myself, was housed in a 100-year-one-time red brick edifice that retained all of its celebrated and romantic charm. I was led to my ain private booth, where I constitute utter quiet bliss. I ended upwards staying for hours, reading my book, sipping on cups of Jin Xuan – a lightly sweet, buttery multifariousness of Oolong that is native to Taiwan – looking up occasionally only to mash my tea, or refill my own cup.
On my mode to the bathroom – a trip made necessary after my fourth pot of tea – I discovered a ceramic fine art workshop in the basement of the tea house, as well as a display area filled with exquisitely crafted tea paraphernalia. There were some pretty pots I would have loved to take habitation, but much of what was beingness sold was far in a higher place what I could afford.
Still, I was thrilled to learn that the owner of the tea business firm was a painter and a ceramic artist who'd made all the teapots and cups used by guests himself, especially when I had then thoroughly enjoyed the feel.
FOOD TRIPPING IN KEELUNG
Rather than head straight back to Taipei, I decided to make one final finish at the port urban center of Keelung, via a 45-minute motorcoach ride that toll me 15NTD (S$0.65). Keelung is known for sightseeing spots similar Lover'south Lake and the Buddha Mitt Cavern, merely I actually had eyes simply for its Miaokou Night Marketplace, located correct next to the Keelung Habour and, happily, the motorcoach and railroad train station.
By the time I arrived, at nigh 7pm, the night market festivities were already in full swing. It was absolute, organised chaos. At that place were and so many people and so many things to see, I didn't know where to brainstorm. I even spotted a homo pulling a small-scale cart with his two children and toy poodles around the market, presumably because they would have gotten lost otherwise. I followed the sea of hungry visitors as it ebbed and flowed through the night market, trying to decide what I should eat, given my rather limited capacity for food.
There was the usual Taiwanese night market place fare that can also be plant in Taipei, similar lu rou fan (braised pork rice), fried chicken, meatballs, shaved ice and oyster omelettes. Simply there were also numerous seafood stalls, selling everything from grilled squid to butter crabs. After much indecision, I settled for some grilled rex oyster mushrooms, 2 servings of succulent fried sweet white potato balls, and a delectable crab and mushroom soup, all of which added upward to almost 160 NTD (S$vii).
It had been the perfect end to a perfect 24-hour interval out, filled with more tea and goodies than I should take stuffed in my body, and a renewed appreciation for Taiwan and all information technology has to offer. With my belly total of treats and a wallet however fuller than expected, I hopped on an limited motorcoach back to Taipei, where, taking a leaf out of my new feline friends' book, I curled up in bed until the work week began once again.
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Source: https://cnalifestyle.channelnewsasia.com/travel/taipei-cat-village-houtong-jiufen-keelung-256831
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